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Removing the pane (fig. 1)
Always remove the pane without the logo (right-hand
pane) to open the fire.This is because of the compression
springs in the glass strip.
• Remove the 6 self-tapping screws (3) from the top glass
strip (4).
• Remove the glass strip (4).
• Remove the 6 self-tapping screws (5) from the right-hand
glass strip (6).
• Remove the right-hand glass strip (6) and then the right-
hand pane (without the logo).
The fire can be installed as a free-standing appliance,
against one long wall or in a corner.
If it is to be installed as a free-standing appliance you will
have to take necessary structural measures yourself to
ensure that it stands steadily.
If it is to be installed against a wall or in a corner, the air
duct must be at least 17 mm away from the wall.This can
be achieved by adjusting the wall bracket (7) to the mini-
mum position. Adjusted to the maximum position the air
duct will be 56 mm away from the wall. If the fire is to be
installed in a corner, make sure that the other air duct is
also at least 17 mm away from the wall.
Move the appliance into the required position.
It must not be allowed to stand on a solid plate without the
feet. If the heater is to be installed without the feet, it must
stand on a plate with holes in it for ventilation purposes.
Otherwise the gas control block and the receiver will get
far too hot, an unsafe situation will also arise.
Now position the chimney breast as required, allowing
enough space around the heater for the heat to escape.
Do ensure a good air supply:Ventilation by installation of
service flap and a gap of 20 mm if the outset and 5 mm
when the recessed option is being used (figure 5 and 6).
Do ensure a good heat discharge: the chimney breast must
be adequately vented, min. 200 cm
11
13
14
38c-1153
2
.
10
11
12
fig. 2
INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLATION
Once it is in position, fix the appliance to the wall using
the wall bracket (7) and the two wedge bolts provided.
Depending on the position of the appliance in respect of
the wall, you might need to turn the wall bracket 90
degrees.To do this, remove the four socket-head screws
(9) and the mounting plate (8).Turn the bracket, determine
the required distance, and replace the mounting plate and
socket-head screws.
There are two options in terms of how to position the
fire in the chimney breast:
• Have the appliance sticking out of the chimney breast (so-
called outset)
• Have the fire recessed in the chimney breast (so-called inset)
If you want to install the fire to project out of the chimney
breast, you will need the outset kit, which consists of:
• Top chimney breast rebate (10)
• Left and right chimney breast rebates (11)
• Cover plates (12 and 13)
Fit the components as shown in fig. 2.
N.B.: do not fit the cover plates until the chimney breast
has been finished (plastered, painted, papered etc.)
Make sure that the insulation material on top of the appli-
ance does not get wet or covered in wallpaper paste.
If you intend to recess your fire, you will not need the
outset kit. Connect the appliance.The appliance is supplied
with the ignition cable coiled. Decoil the cable after instal-
lation to prevent leakage of the voltage, thus preventing
poor ignition.
NB: To ensure the ignition works properly, the ignition
wire must come into as little contact as possible with the
metal parts of the heater and should therefore not be
wound round the gas or pilot-light pipes or the thermo-
couple.
Construct a chimney breast as shown in fig. 3 or 4.
N.B.: the dimensions shown in figs. 3 and 4 are internal
dimensions!
If you decide to use sheet material (e.g. Promatec (P)) for
the chimney breast, you could construct it using
C-sections (Q) as shown in fig. 8.
21
P
Q
10
fig. 8
Paco
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